Tuesday, 15 December 2015

Cossack the Ghost Town

First off to all those that said 'Yes' he will have a hangover, hard luck........ Whilst I accept I was a little sluggish this morning, it was definitely not classifiable as a hangover.......
That said, I expect you can imagine the morning getting off to a slower start, than normal....
First stop, Sam's Hatchery, where we are told that's the place to go to see wildlife, birds and Turtles..... We get there and after reading the Government Trespass Warning notice, for which penalties apply, we step forward into a boggy marsh with the only noise being the squelch and sucking noises coming from the sand/mud as it releases its grip on our foot ware.  Not a living thing although I do believe I heard laughter coming from the homes of the people who told us about Sam's Hatchery....
Next stop, Cossack, a town that was once thriving with a big, fishing, turtle soup and pearling industries in the early 1900's.  The creek then began to silt up and when bigger ships were necessary, they built a new jetty at Point Samson (remember this for later) and moved operations there until eventually moving the Pearling to Broom.  The Turtle Soup enterprise was 'canned' as it became too expensive and the Asians got involved.......
So Cossack became a ghost town, it was wiped out twice by cyclones and then with everyone moving out as the work went elsewhere.  It then fell into disrepair, before the state government gave it National Heritage Status and opened the town back up basically as a museum...... 
Everything, Court, Gaol, School House, Police Station, Transit Camp and Cemetery is open, no people were there so we had the run of the town but left after an hour or so, as you can only get so much excitement from a broken cup and saucer with a tea spoon from the 1900's and worse still there was no Costa Coffee shop in town,
 the Coffee shop that is there, does not reopen until April..
Into Wickham, take a photo of me and one of the giant trucks they use to convey the iron ore for grandsons birthday card, but horror of horrors, I forget to pull my stomach in........ buy bread in Woolworths, try and have a coffee but whilst the shop is open the lady inside said it was closed..... and out of Wickham, it is a nothing town, being in the main a residential overspill for the workers at the Iron Ore works at Cape Lambert.
Go past Roeborne Prison and think, I do hope they have air con! It's a series of individual blocks, behind two razor wire fences, only of course, the blocks all have corrugated metal anti cyclone roofs and it's 39degrees outside so what would it be like inside a metal box without air con? 
Prison I suppose.......
Get to Roebourne, drive around and think, why would anyone live here? It is dire! 
Start to head back when we see Leramugadu Cafe, it's in a Aborigine Cultural Complex, nothing matches, it's a pile of odds and sods with 1960's advertising outside, if you saw it in your local high street you would walk on by however next to this cafe was a Hotel that looked as if it would fall down if you slammed a door....... So in we go and although it is run by a white Australian couple they employ four aborigine waitresses.  If any one of these girls were to be employed by some big London company, they would be achievers, they were polite, happy, helpful, did not stop working for a second, efficient and made the place run like clockwork.  No disrespect to the male owner but when asked what muffins he had, whilst pointing at a dark brown coloured one, you know the normal colour for a chocolate muffin, he replied I think that's a red velvet muffin, I'll just check....... Waitress replies it's not even red, it's a double chocolate chip muffin...... Please do not get rid of your staff they made your place work and together with your wife's cooking, a pleasure to be in.........
Now being suitably refreshed we return to Point Samson, it's really too hot to do anything but we go for a walk to look for the Historical Jetty which just happens to be within 100 yards of where we are staying.  Now think back to when I have previously mentioned the Australian Tourism PR machine, this is an example.  This jetty gets a mention all over and you may, well we did, have a certain image of the jetty from what we have read elsewhere.  Now look at the photo below and tell me wether you conjured up that as an image of the Point Samson Historical Jetty....... 
Back at base and as the heat becomes unbearable we take refuge in my now favourite watering hole, just across the road, especially as someone else on holiday likes the small finch's that inhabit the pubs grounds....... Win Win
And now as I write this, i'm sitting outside, with that comfortable feeling of having had a nice afternoon and a couple of beers in the best bar in NW Oz, with the warm Indian ocean breeze cooling us both and keeping the flies at bay, all around us takes on an orangey pinky glow from the setting sun, the lighthouse and sea warning lights start to show, my dinner arrives, it looks amazing, I cannot wait to finish the day in this perfect setting, with a perfect meal and a chilled glass of wine as I think can it get any better...... Then I sit on my iPad..........


    Can you believe she let me do this.......
    Michelle, don't show Jackson this yet........
    The view from my favourite bar..........
    The Historical Old Point Samson Jetty.......



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